Nebraska Between the Ears
Being from Nebraska, but having lived all over the country, has given me ample opportunity to confront the blank stare, or worse the look of pity, that inevitably arises when I answer the question, "Where are you from?"
My answer rarely registers. Coastal sophisticates know my home only as "the fly-over zone." A place to sleep through, preferably with the aid of a pill, on long flights across the country. Others have a hard time placing it. "Is that in Oklahoma?" some ask. Then there's the totally random "Wild Kingdom" connection, thanks to Mutual of Omaha. We also face inquiries such as, "Is there electricity?" and "Are there Indians?"
Nebraskans are a patient and forgiving lot. However, one myth in particular needs to be tackled here--the notion that Nebraska is flat. It is not. Illinois is flat. Not Nebraska.
So, where does this bogus idea originate? It comes from the fact that I-80 runs parallel to the Platte River the entire length of the state, east to west. The river's flood plain is wide, forty to fifty miles wide in places. That's enough distance to create the illusion that Nebraska is flat for the millions of motorists who never veer from the high speed race or stop long enough to see the real Nebraska. The real Nebraska is blessed with rolling hills in the east, something of a lull in the middle (granted), and The Sandhills--a formation unique on the planet-in the west.
Another key geo-cultural reality: Nebraska is really two states. Humid and Arid. In that seemingly simple change, is the not insignificant transition from East to West, from Central Time to Mountain Time, from city folk in Lincoln and Omaha to ranchers who wave at passers-by with one finger raised from their pickup's steering wheel.
II
The word "boring" tends to quickly follow the words "flat and." This clickable essay will hopefully help erase some of these basic misconceptions about life in daCorn.
Let's start with beer. Why? Because it's a staple the world over, and an apples-to-apples measuring stick. Nebraska currently supports eight craft brewing operations. The most remarkable is Spilker Ales in tiny Cortland, NE. Available mostly in Lincoln, and at the Crescent Moon in Omaha, Spilker is putting out a product equal to the best brews I've tasted anywhere in the country.
Another gem, Omaha's Jaipur Restaurant in Rockbrook Plaza serves a tasty IPA along with their traditional Indian dishes. Upstream Brewing in Omaha's Old Market is the choice of yupsters and tourists alike. Lincoln's Crane River Brew Pub serves authentic ales that are all quite pleasing. Lincoln is also home to Empyrean Ales, a product of Lazlo's in the Historic Haymarket District. Nebraska's third largest city, Grand Island, is home to Copper Eagle Brewing.
While I have yet to visit the following brewers on premise--Gottberg Brew Pub in Columbus, Thunderhead Brewery in Kearney, and Murphy's Wagon Wheel in Hastings--I have enjoyed their offerings at the Annual Nebraska Craft Brewers Festival. It's good to know the movement back to locally produced, high quality beverages (as was standard prior to Prohibiton) has reached small town Nebraska.
III
Imbibing liberally on hoppy beverages, requires that one benefit from exercise in the Great Outdoors. Luckily, Nebraska is all about the Great Outdoors. The Niobrara River, The Platte River, The Missouri River, The Elkhorn River--these are the places Huskers play. Some activities the rivers encourage: bird watching, bird hunting, fishing, tubing, swimming, canoeing, sailing, water skiing, wakeboarding, and camping.
Lakes also abound. Many in Nebraska are man-made. I generally don't agree with this practice, but I figure the rivers will win in the end. Anyway, the most popular lake in Nebraska is Big Mac, or Lake McConaughy. Five hours west of Omaha, it's worth the effort. Twenty two miles long and four wide, it's an impressive site. Next time you fly into Denver from the northeast, look for it about twenty five minutes prior to landing.
Lake purists cross the border into Iowa and motor 200 miles northeast of Omaha. The reward is significant. The Iowa Great Lakes, a.k.a. Okoboji, has been a summer scene for generations. Nebraskans don't have summer homes on Nantucket or in East Hampton (too far for the weekend). They have them at Okoboji.
IV
Nebraska has long been blessed with writers and other artists. Red Cloud is Willa Cather's childhood home and the setting for her classic novels My Antonia and Oh Pioneers. The Sandhills are brought to life in the works of Mari Sandoz, most notably in Old Jules. John G. Neihardt poet and friend of Lakota Medicine Man, Black Elk, called Bancroft, Nebraska his home from 1900 to 1920. Loren Eisley, noted anthropologist, Prairie Schooner contributor, and author of The Immense Journey is from Lincoln. National Book Award winner, Wright Morris hails from Central City. And Bess Streeter Aldrich, an O. Henry Award winner, lived and wrote in Elmwood, Nebraksa. The Nebraska Center for Writers, affiliated with Creighton University, is an amazing resource. Please visit their site for more on this subject.
Hollywood film maker and Omaha native, Alexander Payne, has shot three feature films, all set in Omaha. He's Nebraska's Woody Allen. His comedic sense is extraordinary and his cinematography is a joy to view. His films have starred Jack Nicholson, Laura Dern, Reece Witherspoon and Mathew Broderick. In other words, he's the Real Deal. Rent the videos or buy the DVDs.
Rock/funk band, 311 got started in Omaha and Lincoln. Check the song, "Omaha-Stylee" on their first release, Grassroots. The point is talent. Big buckets of talent sprouting up between the ears. Malcolm X was born here. So too were President Gerald Ford and Hall of Fame pitcher, Bob Gibson.
V
Omaha is located right in the middle of the country on two prominent Interstates, 80 and 29. We are literally at the crossroads of the nation. This centrality plays an important role in attracting national touring acts to stop for the night and play our bars, clubs, theaters, and auditoriums. I have recently seen Merl Saunders, Tony Furtado Band, Chris Duarte, Bernie Worrell, moe., Galactic, Leftover Salmon, Jazz Mandolin Project, Tinsley Ellis, Blues Traveler, String Cheese Incident, and Bela Fleck & the Flecktones, among others, take the stage deep in daCorn.
Omaha has long been noted for its restaurants. One could devote much attention to just this subject, but for our purposes here, I'll focus on a select few "not to miss" establishments. Bomba Dia in the heart of Dundee, serves up scrumptious Carribean fare in a funky, jazz-infused atmosphere. And as far as I know, it's the only place in Nebraska where one may order--and receive--a Mojito (rum drink with fresh mint and lime).
Some other culinary notables on the Omaha scene: The French Cafe, Vivace, V. Mertz, M's Pub, The Original Caniglia's, Mr.C's, Jams, Flatiron Cafe, Stokes, Gorat's, Lo Sole Mio, The Greek Islands, Zio's Pizzeria, and Johnny's. Diner enthusiasts will enjoy Lisa's Radial Cafe and Louis M.'s Burger Lust.
VI
Nebraska has a fascinating history and the future looks pretty damn good too. We hosted the nation's westward migration, as our rutted soils still attest. Lewis and Clark came this way. So did The Oregon Trail, The Mormon Trail, The Pony Express, and the Union Pacific. And while people have been passing through on their way to the dramatic vistas and temperate climes of the West, a lucky few have bloomed where they're planted.
Today, Omaha is home to five Fortune 500 headquarters, a top twenty ranking, and some 15,500 millionaires, according to the Chamber of Commerce. Many of whom no doubt made the wise decision to invest with Berkshire Hathaway magnate, Warren Buffet, affectionately known as the "Oracle of Omaha." Warren lives here in a "humble" $700,000 house, despite being the nation's second richest person, behind only Bill Gates. Gates comes to Omaha to play bridge with Warren. No joke.
Everyone with a TV knows how prominent/dominant the Nebraska Cornhusker football program is. I'm a fan myself, but there's just so much more to the state. Boys Town was founded here. Arbor Day began here. Nebraska's Unicameral legislature is the only such governing body among fifty. The reuben sandwich was invented in Omaha. So was the bobby pin, raisin bran, and center-pivot irrigation. What else do you want?
Drivers entering the state are greeted with the message, "Nebraska--The Good Life." While such things are always subjective, clean air, cheap real estate, great restaurants, beautiful countryside, good schools, and nice people are all tangible aspects of "the good life" in daCorn.
©2001 David Burn Some rights reserved
David Burn is a native Nebraskan now living in Bluffton, SC.